Mala Market for Sichuan Peppercorns giveaway is being offered by The Mala Market as part of Wok Wednesdays this month. The prize package includes seeds from the oldest and most respected maker of chili bean paste in Pixian County, Sichuan (which is worth $40), dried whole-facing-heaven chilies, and ground spicy chilies, and ground fragrant-hot chilies. In the United States, Sichuan peppercorns are inconsistent and of mediocre quality. In order to kill parasites, the American government requires that the peppercorns be heat-treated. This has greatly diminished the distinctive flavor and aroma of the peppercorns. It has occasionally become necessary for me to ask friends to help me buy good quality Sichuan peppercorns from Yuan Heng Spice Co. in Hong Kong.

I recently tried the Mala Market Sichuan peppercorns, and from the moment I opened the package I knew I would enjoy them. I cooked the Dried Fried Pepper and Salt Shrimp and Vinegar Glazed Chicken with the peppers and the flavor was incredible. She was kind enough to explain why her peppercorns are so special to Taylor Holliday, owner of The Mala Market.

As I understand it, all Sichuan peppercorns sold in the United States have been heated. Can you explain this?

In preparation for importing Sichuan pepper (I came to this business from journalism), I researched the history of Sichuan pepper in the U.S. (The short version: Sichuan pepper was outlawed in the U.S. between 1968 and 2005 for fear of spreading citrus canker. As part of the 2005 lifting of the ban, all Sichuan pepper had to be heated to 140 degrees for 10 minutes or more to kill any possible canker bacteria. Thanks to my research, I discovered that the USDA has quietly lifted this requirement, It seems that none of the big manufacturers and suppliers I spoke with in Sichuan know about the change and still heat treat all Sichuan pepper for the U.S. market. We believe these are the first (legal) non-heated Sichuan pepper sold in the U.S. since 1968.

 What is the distinct taste of each and what are the benefits of each?

You don’t need to stick to rigid rules when choosing which Sichuan pepper to use for what dish. It really depends on your personal preference. This is what I consider to be the quintessential Sichuan pepper taste: the da hong pao. Citrus grown in Gansu province is bright red in color and has a woodsy undertone to it. There is a famous “hua jiao” pepper grown in Hanyuan County, Sichuan, called Hanyuan red Sichuan pepper. The da hong pao is smaller, darker, and has a sharper citrus tang.

Green Sichuan pepper is grown in Yunnan. It has a citrusy taste and smell, as well as a fresh vegetal aroma. Over the past couple of decades, Sichuan has become very popular for using it with chicken and fish dishes. A red Sichuan pepper with a woodsy, earthy flavor will pair better with heavier flavors like pork and dishes containing chili bean paste (doubanjiang). Green Sichuan pepper, however, is often garnished in its fresh form when it is in season.